How to make your own Archery Equipment

what archery equipment do i need and what is archery equipment called and what are the equipment of archery and archery equipment for beginners
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Published Date:01-08-2017
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HOW TO MAKE HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN YOUR OWN ARCHERY EQUIPMENT ARCHERY EQUIPMENT How to make your own equipment Page 1 C Co on nt te en nt ts s: : H Ho ow w t to o: :- - 1. Make your own bow handle (riser). ........................ Page 3 Make your own bow handle (riser). ........................ Page 3 2. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n b bo ow w lliim mb bs s.. ...................................................................... P Pa ag ge e 6 6 3. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n s st tr riin ng g.. .................................................................................. P Pa ag ge e 1 10 0 4. Make your own bow stringer. ................................ Page 19 Make your own bow stringer. ................................ Page 19 5. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n s siig gh ht t.. .................................................................................... P Pa ag ge e 2 20 0 6. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n a ar rr ro ow w r re es st t.. ...................................................................... P Pa ag ge e 2 22 2 7. Make your own pressure button. ........................... Page 28 Make your own pressure button. ........................... Page 28 8. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n d dr ra aw w lle en ng gt th h c ch he ec ck ke er r ( (c clliic ck ke er r) ).. .................. P Pa ag ge e 2 29 9 9. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n a ar rr ro ow w s sh ha afft ts s.. .............................................................. P Pa ag ge e 3 30 0 10. Make your own fletchings. ................................... Page 34 Make your own fletchings. ................................... Page 34 11. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n ffiin ng ge er r p pr ro ot te ec ct to or r ( (t ta ab b) ).. ...................................... P Pa ag ge e 3 37 7 12. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n a ar rm m g gu ua ar rd d ( (b br ra ac ce er r) ).. ............................................ P Pa ag ge e 3 39 9 13. Make your own finger sling. ................................. Page 40 Make your own finger sling. ................................. Page 40 14. Make your own quiver. ....................................... Page 45 Make your own quiver. ....................................... Page 45 15. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n g gr ro ou un nd d q qu uiiv ve er r.. .......................................................... P Pa ag ge e 4 47 7 16. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n t ta ar rg ge et t.. .............................................................................. P Pa ag ge e 4 48 8 17. Make your own target stand. ............................... Page 50 Make your own target stand. ............................... Page 50 18. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n b bo ow w s st ta an nd d.. .................................................................... P Pa ag ge e 5 52 2 19. M Ma ak ke e y yo ou ur r o ow wn n a ar rr ro ow w c co on nt ta aiin ne er r.. .................................................... P Pa ag ge e 5 55 5 How to make your own equipment Page 2 1. How to make your own bow riser (bow body / handle): Necessary materials for making the riser: - a model or pattern, - a medium-sized saw, - a small saw, - a saw blade, - a wood plane, Illustration 1.1 - a spoke shave, - a cooper tool, - a hammer, - a rasp, - a flat file, - a rough triangular file, - a bow square or set square, - a measuring tape, - a “bar clamp” or “G clamp”, - a ruler, - pincers or pliers, Illustration 1.2 - aluminium or other material in the form of an U (with a length of 7 cm, a width of 4 cm, a height of 2 cm and a thickness of 1 mm) - a plate made of aluminium or another material with a length of 12 cm to 14 cm, a width of 4 cm and a thickness of 1 mm. - a pencil, - an eraser, - nylon thread, Illustration 1.3 - sand paper, - a machete or a hand axe, 2. Use the “bar clamp” or “G clamp” to fix - use 2 to 3 years old dried large the plank to a bench so that the drawn bamboo sticks (thickness = 1.5 to 2 shape can be cut out. cm, length: 1.5 m. 3. Saw out the shape of the riser. See illustrations 1.4 & 1.5. NB: Cut the bamboo near the earth´s surface during waning moon and dry it for at least 45 days. Cut out a plank of mahogany, teak or another hard wood with a length of 50 cm, a height of 11 cm and a thickness of 4 cm. Making the riser: Cutting out the shape of the riser; Illustration 1.4 1. Draw the form of the riser on the plank of mahogany by means of the pattern; see illustrations 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. How to make your own equipment Page 3 Illustration 1.7 Illustration 1.8 Cut out the sight window following the lines Illustration 1.5 on the right side of the riser. The riser is fragile near the protruding corners and is 4. At this stage cut out a sight window in likely to break or chip if care is not taken, see the upper part of the riser (to the left for illustration 1.9. right-handed archers and to the right for left- handed archers). How to make the sight window for a left- handed archer: You have to cut out the sight window to the right, which means that you have to hold the riser with your right hand. Illustration 1.9 Draw a line on the curved piece of the now roughly shaped “riser” at a distance of 2cm to Round off the upper and lower ends of the the upper edge of the protruding corner and sight window. These curves do not weaken another line at a distance of 2cm to the lower the riser too much. The upper curve can be a edge. Draw a longitudinal line which divides bit “larger” than the lower curve. Here you the space of 4cm into two equal pieces; see can see an example of form which is a good illustrations 1.6, 1.7 and 1.8. compromise for the edge of the sight window while maintaining the strength of the riser see, illustration 1.10. Take the sand paper and polish the whole riser. Illustration 1.6 Illustration 1.10 How to make your own equipment Page 4 There is two ways of making the fixing for the limbs. One way is to bend a piece of the metal into a channel and screw it to the riser as shown in illustration 1.11, or the metal can be shaped into a channel and fixed to the riser as shown in illustration 1.12. Illustration 1.11 Illustration 1.12 o 0 o How to make your own equipment Page 5 2. How to make your own bow limbs: get several “U”s with 7 cm length, 4 cm width and 1.6 cm height, see illustration 2.1. Material needed: - mallet or hammer, - wide chisel, - measuring tape, - saw, - plane or draw knife, - flat rasp or file, - small round file, - well seasoned bamboo, 80 cm long. Using bamboo: Which bamboo to choose? Illustration 2.1 Use mature bamboo between 2 and 3 years of age. You can get an estimation of the age Braces of the limbs: from the yellowish colour and from the sound when you hit the bamboo with a piece of For the braces of the limbs see illustrations wood or iron. 2.2 and 2.3. You have to choose between two alternatives: How to cut the bamboo: a. You can use the remains of your bar Select the bamboo that has a large diameter which you used for making the guides of and a wall thickness of between 4 and 6 the limbs. For this, open the angles and millimetres. Cut the bamboo low down near you get panels with a length of 12 to 14 the earth´s surface and cut the trunk into cm while the width and height remain the lengths of 80 centimetres. same, see illustration 2.2. b. Cut out pieces of 12 to 14 cm long from Drying: the panel made of aluminium or a similar Dry the bamboo for at least 45 days before material. The limbs will be put into the using it. guides that are fixed to each end of the riser. Fix the aluminium panels in the How to determine the length of the limbs: form of a “U” with tacks 2 cm long to the two ends of the riser. Each end is 9 cm The length of the bow made from bamboo long and 4 cm in width and has a guide corresponds to the size of the archer. with a length of 7 cm and a width of 4 cm In the following example, we have taken the with a height of 1.6 cm see illustration archer to be approximately 170 cm tall. The 2.3. riser should have a length of approximately 50 cm. And the length of each limb should be approximately 71 cm. The overlapping zones between riser and limbs for fixing the limbs on the riser should be 9 cm on each side. The string nock has to measure 1.5 cm. from the end of the limb. Presentation of the aluminium parts for fixing the limbs. Guide of the limbs: The guides are made of aluminium box Illustration 2.2 section bars (length: 6 cm, width: 4 cm and height: 1 mm) which are available in stores. Cut them into two pieces lengthwise and you How to make your own equipment Page 6 Illustration 2.3 Cutting the bamboo to size: Illustration 2.5 Split the bamboo into two pieces by means of Assembling the limbs: a blade or a hand axe or wood chisel by paying attention to the direction of the Put the bamboo on the guide that is in the bamboo fibres. Do not use a saw as this will form of a “U” on the riser, and mark the possibly not run true with the fibres, see excessive material with the pencil. The illustration 2.4. excessive material has to be removed in order for the limbs to fit into the “U” guide, see illustration 2.6. Illustration 2.6 Illustration 2.4 Remove the excessive material to a length of If the diameter of the bamboo is large 7 cm using wood plane or wood chisel and fix enough, it may be divided into four or six the bamboo “limb” into the “U” section on the pieces with a width of 4 cm for each limb. riser. The inner knots should be removed as these will affect the curvature of the limb, see NB: Even if you turn the riser upside down, illustration 2.5. the inserted limbs must not slip off the “U” guide. Find the central alignment by tying a nylon thread to the centre of each limb tip, and using this as a guide, draw on the bamboo the shape you want the limb to be, see illustration 2.7. How to make your own equipment Page 7 Illustration 2.10 Illustration 2.7 Forming the groove on the end of the limbs to take the string end: Then take the “limbs” off the riser and remove the excess wood that is outside the Finally shape the ends of the limbs and draw lines drawn, see illustration 2.8. a line across the limb 2 cm away from the end of the limb on the side which is visible to the archer when in the shooting position, and another 1.7 cm from the end of the limb on the side which is not visible to the archer in shooting position. For determining the form of the future string nock, draw a mark at a distance of 5 mm of each side of the centre line. This necking carries the string loop. The necking (shaping) must be sloping, see illustration 2.11. Illustration 2.8 When the rough shape is achieved either a spoke shave, rasp or wood plane can be used Illustration 2.11 to finally shape the “limbs”, see illustrations 2.9 and 2.10. Illustration 2.9 How to make your own equipment Page 8 Cut out the shape of the limb tip with a saw or a saw blade, see illustration 2.12. Illustration 2.14 Note: For a while occasionally look at the Illustration 2.12 string ends to ascertain that no wear is appearing on the serving at the loop ends of Then finish your work by smoothing the limb the string. If any wear does appear remove tip with a small round file, see illustration the string and remove any sharp areas on the 2.13. Ensure that this area is not left with any limb tips where the string is fitted. sharp corners as this will cut the bow string. o 0 o Illustration 2.13 When the riser and limbs are fitted together and the string is fitted you will have a bow, as can be seen in illustration 2.14. How to make your own equipment Page 9 3. How to make your own string: model of the bow but it will bring you close to the required length for subsequent string Materials needed: making. - a string jig as shown in illustration 3.1. Take the old string off the jig. Turn the jig - a spool of Dacron. ends so they are square to the line of the jig. - braided serving material. Loosely tie one end of the string material to a - string serving tool. string post about 2 centimetres below the - scissors. groove on the post which takes the string - a ruler. material. Then wind the string material round - 2 markers (each a different colour). the posts (keeping to the groove at the top of each post) making sure the rotation starts by Dacron should be used for making a string for going round the post that is the nearest to a beginner's bow; other materials could the post the string material is tied to, see diminish the life of the string and the bow illustration 3.2. The secret to a good, reliable considerably. Whatever the material used, the string lies in the equal tension of each strand. basic method to make a string remains the If the tension is not equal between all same, but watch for the number of strands. strands, the string breaks because the pressure was held only by a few strands. As the pressure of beginner bows is always less than 25 lbs, it is recommend making strings using Dacron with eight strands. If you are making an 8 strand string go round the jig 4 times, if you are making a 10 strand string then the need will be to go round the jig 5 times. Always make sure the finishing end is tied lightly to the post that is past the post to which the start of the string material was Illustration 3.1 tied. This allows an overlap of the string material that is secured under the loop serving. Installation onto the string jig: If you already have a bowstring to the length of the new one you are about to make it will be easier to make the new one to the correct length at the first attempt. If you do not already have a string which is of the correct length there are procedures and measurements which will to help get close to the length of string required. This will be discussed a little later. If you have a string that is the correct length: Turn the string jig post carrier ends so that they are in line. This part depends on the length of the string, but undo between 10 and Illustration 3.2 15 of the twists. Place it on, and adjust the string jig so that there is no sag on the string. Serving the loop: Do not have the string too tight as this will Make the first loop to be served the end of have an effect on the string length that is the jig that has the string material overlap, being made. this will be beneficial and stop those ends coming loose as the string manufacture If you do not have a string that is the continues. Untie the starting end that was correct length: tied 2 centimetres down the first post and Set the string jig to a length that is 3½ inches loop it round the post groove under the (9 cm) shorter that the length of the bow. windings, see illustration 3.3. All servings This measurement depends on the make and How to make your own equipment Page 10 must be wound on the string in the same direction; this will ensure that they will not come loose when twists are added to the string for active use. I prefer to serve from right to left having the serving spool coming toward me from under the string. If all servings are completed this way they will all be in the same direction. Illustration 3.5 Continue serving the now joined loop in the same direction as before. Make sure the two loose ends of the string material are held Illustration 3.3 along this section and served over. After about 6 centimetres they should be cut off, Making the loop: make sure that there are at least 4 winds of When the correct length of serving has been serving between cutting off the first loose end reached, see illustration 3.4, turn the jig and cutting off the second loose end. swivelling end 90 degrees and slide the string This will stop having a small step along the round the jig so that the served section is serving, which may possibly wear and cause now round the outside post. the serving to break during use. Serving to the correct length: Wind the serving on to within 1 centimetre of the desired length i.e. about 10 or 12 centimetres, see illustration 3.6 (this measurement depends on the limb Recurve curvature). Keeping the tension on the serving, pull the serving tool away from the string and cut the serving thread leaving about a 45-centimetre length for finishing off the serving. Illustration 3.4 The end still attached to the serving tool should be about 4 millimetres shorter than the end where the serving had been started; this will allow 4 millimetres of serving overlap giving a neat join to the loop, see illustration 3.5. How to make your own equipment Page 11 Illustration 3.8 Illustration 3.6 Making a neat end to the serving: Pass the tail end of the serving over the string with the left hand about 3 centimetres from the end of the serving; make a loop holding this with the fingers of the right hand. Using the left hand pass the tail end to the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. Then keeping the loop tight, bring the tail end through the loop under the string and pass it on to the left hand see illustration 3.7. Illustration 3.9 Locking off the tail end: Make this part of serving for about twelve turns or until about 1 centimetre long. Place the tail end under the loop of serving thread just as it comes off the end of the serving already completed with the serving tool, and lock it there by keeping pressure on the loop, see illustrations 3.10 & 3.11. Illustration 3.7 Serving back through the loop: Continue passing the tail end of the serving Illustration 3.10 over the top of the string with the left hand to the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, bringing it through the loop and passing it back to the left hand. This part of serving will be running through the loop and toward the serving already done with the serving tool, see illustrations 3.8 & 3.9. How to make your own equipment Page 12 being pulled through. By pulling, the end strand can twist on itself and "refuse" to pass under the server. Use a pencil, or similar, to help guide it through, see illustrations 3.13, 3.14 & 3.15. Illustration 3.11 Finishing off the serving: Once the tail end has been secured, and keeping the loop tight, wind it round the Illustration 3.13 string, continuing on from the serving already done with the serving tool. In doing this the serving will get longer and the part that was wound through the loop will get shorter. By serving manually the right part over the tail end, you un-serve the left end, see illustration 3.12. Illustrations 3.14 Illustration 3.15 Cutting off the tail end: When the tail end has been pulled through and the serving is nice and tight the tail end can be cut off. To do this place a knife flat on the serving section that has just been wound back to meet the serving that was done with the serving tool, then gently cut off the tail Illustration 3.12 end. If the knife is placed on the serving which was done using the serving tool the Pulling the end through: serving where the tail end comes out may When all of the winds on the loop end have inadvertently be cut, as this will be a little been wound off, still keeping the loop tight, proud of the main serving due to the tail end pull the tail end until the loop has completely being underneath it, see illustration 3.16. gone. The thumb of the left hand can be used or even a pencil can be placed under the loop to maintain the tension whilst the tail end is How to make your own equipment Page 13 on the string in the same direction, see illustration 3.18. Illustration 3.16 Completing the other end of the string: When the first end of the string is complete turn the string jig round and do exactly the same the other end. Bear in mind that the top loop of the string must be large enough to slip over the top limb when stringing the bow. By serving both ends in the same way the servings will be correct when the string is twisted for fitting to the bow. Twisting the string in the correct direction: When both end loops of the string are completed the string should be fitted to the Illustration 3.18 bow so that the centre serving can be added. To do this fit the top loop over the top limb Some people serve their strings in a different and slide it down about 10 centimetres. Take direction, or way, than shown in this leaflet. hold of the loop for the lower limb and twist it These three diagrams may help in for 10 to 20 turns, see illustration 3.17 (make determining the direction the string should be sure that the turns are in the correct direction twisted to stop any of the servings coming otherwise the end servings may come loose). loose during use. Getting the correct bracing height: If the new string is not to the correct length for a given bracing height then the length may be adjusted by adding or reducing the number of twists in the string. The minimum recommended is approximately 1 full turn every 7.5 centimetres, there is no maximum but remember the more twists in the string it will take longer to settle to its working length. It will also be fatter which may give a reduced performance. The bracing height may be measured from the throat of the bow grip to Illustration 3.17 the string, as shown in illustration 3.19, or from the string to the centre of the pressure The direction of twist shown is the correct button plunger. direction for the direction of serving shown in this document. If the string is twisted in the opposite direction to the serving, the serving will possibly come loose and may move during use. All three servings must be wound How to make your own equipment Page 14 should be served in the same direction that the end loops were served i.e. from right to left taking the serving spool over the top of the string and away from you. Illustration 3.19 Before bedding in the wax have the brace height 3 millimetres higher than the required final height as bedding in the wax will Illustration 3.21 increase the string length thus lowering the brace height. Take a piece of leather; fold it Serving the required length: round the string and rub up and down the full When the serving is 1 centimetre shorter than length of the string, see illustration 3.20. the required length, i.e. about 16 Most string materials do not need extra wax centimetres, see illustration 3.22, (this length applied to the string before undertaking this depends on the individuals preference) task, but if the string material is un-waxed continue to finish off the serving exactly the then a few rubs of a Bees wax block on the same as the top and bottom servings were string will be necessary before the string is finished. Remember the serving gives rubbed with the piece of leather. protection to the string should it contact the armguard during the completion of the shot. It also has a bearing on the tuning of the bow, the lighter the serving the faster the string will travel and heavier the serving the slower the string will travel. Different lengths and weight of the centre serving can be used for fine tuning the bow. Illustration 3.20 The centre serving. With the bracing height set to the desired height the centre serving can be applied. Choose a serving material with a diameter to give the correct fit for the size of nocks to be used. This will save having to build up the Illustration 3.22 nocking area to get a good fitting nock, or vice versa, having to replace the serving It is usually easier to start the serving on the because the nock is too tight. Start the right and to work toward the left, with the serving at a height above the desired nocking serving spool coming toward you from point position to give adequate string and underneath the string. If you serve this way, finger protection, a suggested height of which is the way the end servings were done, approximately 6.5 centimetres would be sufficient, see illustration 3.21. The serving How to make your own equipment Page 15 all three servings (the end loops and centre finger, see illustration 3.25. This can also be serving) will be all the same way. done when just a few centimetres have been served, if the arrow nock is too tight and a When the serving is 8 to 10 millimetres short thinner material is needed it will save undoing of the required length, pull about 30 the whole centre serving. When the centre centimetres of serving off the spool - make a serving is confirmed as a good fit it should be loop and serve back toward the serving finished off the same way the end serving through the loop just made. This serving does were finished. not need to be tight but the spool must be turned around the string in the same direction as the serving was applied. Make sure that the loop is always kept tight otherwise the serving on the right of the loop will come loose, which will cause a problem when the string is in use. When this reverse serving is about 8 to 10 millimetres long bring the serving on the serving spool out and trap it under the right hand side of the loop. Continue the serving by turning the right side of the loop toward you from underneath the string, (the same direction as the spool was used earlier) see Illustration 3.25 illustrations 3.23 & 3.24. As this is done the serving on the left-hand side of the loop will It is very important to have a good fit get shorter. Reduce the tension of the server between the arrow nock and the centre before unrolling the end strand. This allows it serving. Sometimes nocking point to detach easily. enlargement is necessary to ensure a proper nock fit when small strings are used on light weight bows. This may be achieved by adding a second layer of very thin serving, or dental floss, over the area of the nocking point, approximately 2 cm long. A little fletching glue can be wiped over this area as the serving progresses, but take care not to use too much as it makes the string stiff at that point. The best way is to add some strands of Dacron under the serving when making the Illustration 3.23 string. These additional strands must be kept stretched as you serve around them, see illustrations 3.26 & 3.27. Illustration 3.24 After the centre serving is complete hold the bow horizontally and place the arrow on the string so that it is hanging straight down. If the centre serving is a good fit the arrow should hold onto the string and only fall off Illustration 3.26 when the string is give a light tap with a How to make your own equipment Page 16 After shooting about 30 arrows, re-measure the brace height. It has most likely decreased and will need resetting. If this is the case check the nocking point and adjust if necessary. Illustration 3.27 The nocking point: The correct height of the nocking point depends on many things. A suggested starting point is to have the top of the bottom nocking point about 5 mm higher than where the bottom of the shaft makes a 90 degree angle with the string, see illustration 3.28. Illustration3.29 5mm o 0 o Illustration 3.28 Nock locators may be added in two ways. A manufactured nock-set is available that is clamped on the string with special pliers. Another method is to use a standard heavy thread, see illustration 3.29, then fixing this with fletching cement to form a small neat ring around the serving. This knot must be firm and uniform. Apply another thin coat of glue over the entire nock locator, and then leave it to dry. The nock locators may be above and below the nock. How to make your own equipment Page 17 4. How to make your own bow stringer: Materials needed: - 2 meters of rope, - small piece of rubber or matting, Use a solid 2 meters long rope and make it into a loop. Put the bottom limb on some sort of cushion, small rubber mat, or a piece of carpet…anything to avoid scrapping the bottom limb tip on a rough floor. Fold the rope in two equal parts and put it astride on the bow grip. Place your feet in the loops as shown in illustrations 4.1 & 4.2. Pull on the top limb towards you and place the top string loop on the top bow tip. Beware not to pull the limb directly toward your face, if the lower limb or rope slipped an injury may occur as a result. Illustration 4.2 Always check the good positioning of the string, particularly on the bottom limb tip, before releasing your pull effort,. There is more information available in the FITA Coaching Manual Level 1. o 0 o Illustration 4.1 How to make your own equipment Page 18 5. How to make your own sight: Materials needed: - stick of bamboo or wood similar to the characteristics of bamboo, - screw of 3.5 cm in length, - adhesive tape, - a piece of hard rubber foam, - tack of 2 cm in length, - screw driver, - hammer, - knife, - saw blade, - boring bit (3), - a plastic tube with an inner diameter of Illustration 5.2 4.5 mm, Drill a hole 7·5 mm from each end of the Take the stick of bamboo or wood with similar scale bar and then put adhesive tape around characteristics and cut out a blade with a the bamboo blade where you have drilled the two holes. Put the screws through the length of 18 cm, a width of 1 cm and a adhesive tape and into the holes, see thickness of 2 mm. This bamboo stick serves illustration 5.3. as scale bar of the sight, see illustration 5.1 Illustration 5.1 Take the block of hard rubber foam with a length of 3 cm and a width of 2 cm to serve as slider. Cut a hole for the blade of bamboo Illustration 5.3 in such a manner that you have 1/3 of space between the riser and the scale bar and 2/3 Put a piece of bamboo with an inner diameter of space on the other side of the scale bar. of at least 4.5 mm and a length of 1 cm This makes it easy for the rubber foam to around each of the screws. Then fix the sight slide along the wood without fouling the riser, to the back of the riser, using the two screws, see illustration 5.2. at the level of the sight window, see illustrations 5.4 and 5.5. How to make your own equipment Page 19 Illustration 5.4 Illustration 5.7 o 0 o Illustration 5.5 Insert a thin piece of bamboo through the foam slider on the sight track leaving approximately 2 cm from the inner side of the sight window. This visible end of the bamboo serves as your sight pin, see illustrations 5.6 and 5.7. Illustration 5.6 How to make your own equipment Page 20

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